KTM 50 Mini Adventure - the stripdown.

Another project, but not mine. This little racer belongs to Billy and the little KTM was having a few issues. It wouldn't run for long and, when it did, it would barely pull itself along. A quick try in the garage and it was obvious the clutch was slipping. So that's part of the problem. The running problem I already had a clue about; apparently she was drinking the gearbox oil - main bearings and seals!

Seat, tank and air cleaner out of the way, next was the pipe. Two-stroke motocrossers are so easy!

Off with the stator cover to reveal the oil pump drive - previously disconnected on this bike, and a quick feel for play in the crankshaft told me it needed main bearings. Grab the end of the crankshaft and try to pull it up and down, if you can feel play, the bearings are worn. Time to take off the cylinder head and whip out the engine.

The big and small end bearings have a fair amount of play - it's a wonder it sounded as good as it did when it was running. It's a fairly new piston, but I think we might need a new gudgeon pin as well as a connecting rod kit. Oh well, keep going and clutch cover off.

Not much left on the clutch linings - that'll explain the lack of drive. Not much in the way of gearbox either, simplicity itself! Need a puller for the clutch centre. Time for some fabrication.

The perfect washer. Couple of holes, refit the clutch centre-nut and job's a job!

Yes, they've worn very thin - the clutch drum is also worn, but hopefully not beyond spec. The shoes can be shimmed if need be, so let's hope it can be sorted. The new puller can be used on the rotor too - that'll ding dang do for me.

The taper broke with relative ease. This job is going well so far. Time to split the cases.

And there we have the gearbox oil that was being sucked through the seal and mullered bearing!

Time for the blowlamp to warm the cases. Get it to a temperature where your saliva spits back and the bearings should drop out. Gentlemen, spit on your engine (ladies get a cup of water).

Time to whip the piston off. I would have taken it off earlier but the circlips had been put in the wrong place making it harder to get them out. Cheers Pat!
Never mind, with the conrod held in the vice, the piston was soon off. Quick look over, smooth off the rough edges and clean the crown. Sorted.

So we need a crank rebuild, a gudgeon pin, four new bearings (crank and countershaft), three new seals, clutch shoes and a gasket set. Then we start on the chassis.

Michelin Power Pure - the verdict.

With the Michelin Pilot Power's finally devoid of grooves, I figured it was time to upgrade. I've been wanting to try the Power Pure's for ages, so $429.00 later (Team Moto Honda, Nerang), I was ready to give them a whirl.

Now the tread pattern isn't as nice as the old Pilot's, but you can't see that when you're riding, and the riding is where it all makes sense. Fantastic from the off!

Normally, when you stick a new pair of boots on your bike, it takes a bit of getting used to; falling suddenly into bends - no more forcing it through the twisties, but not with the Power's. Spot on from the onset. If anything, slower to turn in than the old ones, but with ease and great feel.

Absolutely sublime - they suit the GSXR perfectly. First 80km ride over, and the chicken strips are already gone. Happy with that.

Lighter than their predecessors and now standard with twin-compound technology, I'm enjoying the bike more than ever before. Finally getting my left knee down now too. Successful weekend!

A Real Factory Streetfighter? The Aprilia RSV4 Tuono...

Is this the streetfighter that you don't have to build yourself? Aprilia's RSV4 Tuono could be the bike for the hypersports boys who no longer want a sportsbike.

The official spiel from Aprilia:

The Tuono gives away very little to its RSV4 sibling in terms of pure performance (167bhp @ 11,500rpm) but a host of engine tweaks make it more flexible for the road.

Changes include new valve timing, 20mm longer fixed intake ducts, crankshaft flywheel with increased inertia for improved smoothness and overall balance and shortened gear ratios for the first three gears. Plus the Tuono V4 R features latest generation Ride by Wire throttle control with three rider-selectable maps (Track, Sport and Road).



The RSV4 frame has also been modified specifically for use in the Tuono V4 R. This led to changes in chassis geometry, including modifying the trail and lowering the engine in the frame to lower the centre of gravity, for exceptional high speed stability.



The Tuono V4 R comes equipped with some of the best components on the market: Brembo brakes with radial calipers and 320mm floating discs at the front (220mm at the rear), aluminium wheels with an all-new three spoke design (2kg less than the five spoke version), fully-adjustable Sachs USD 43mm front forks and a Sachs shock absorber with a separate piggy back nitrogen canister (adjustable for spring preload, compression, rebound damping and length).



The Tuono V4 R is available with or without class-leading Aprilia Performance Ride Control (APRC) technology.



What is APRC? - Aprilia Performance Ride Control is an engine torque control system that helps improve performance and enhance safety for the rider. It includes:

• Aprilia Traction Control (ATC) – the most advanced traction control system on the market. It’s the only motorcycle TC system that can be adjusted on the move instantly without shutting the throttle and automatically adjusts to suit if you change your tyres. Features 8 level settings, so you can turn it down for track use or up for wet road riding on the go.

• Aprilia Wheelie Control (AWC) – Identifies the start of wheelie and controls it to maximise acceleration whilst keeping the front end down. Features 3 settings.

• Aprilia Launch Control (ALC) – Optimises acceleration from a standing start. For track/race use, with 3 settings.

• Aprilia Quick Shift (AQS) - for ultra-fast clutchless up-shifting.



The Tuono V4 R is £10,628 (OTR) while the Tuono V4 R APRC version is £11,628 (OTR).

I think I want... no, need one!



 

It's been a while...

A friend just sent me something that i had to share. This bike looks awesome!

Built by DariztDesign in Indonesia, it's a Honda GL100 built in bobber style. 
Produced in a shed - the way it should, their attention to detail is fantastic!

See more at http://dariztdesign.blogspot.com/

Enjoy and be inspired!

BSA Electric Starter Kits.

Making my favourite Brit twins even better!
Anyone involved with classic BSA's will have heard about SRM engineering.  Originally formed by Steve McFarlane, SRM was famous for Steve's oil end-feed crank conversions - and still is.  My own BSA A10 had the conversion, along with other cool modifications, when they were still in Cardiff.  


Present day - and while SRM is now in Aberystwyth - Steve remained in Cardiff restoring and repairing classic and modern bikes in his new workshop in Brunswick street.  


Trust me - this guy can fix anything!  The standard of his work is second to none and, where I normally can't stand anyone else touching my bikes, I'm more than happy to let Steve work his magic when I need a rebore, crank regrind etc. (He once repaired a huge hole in the chaincase of my Norton Jubilee and the finish was stunning!)


So what's new?  
Well his latest creation is going to help a lot of classic riders enjoy their bikes well into old age.  A starter motor conversion for your BSA A10, A7, B31, B33 and Gold Star swinging arm models. Starter conversion


This kit is designed to be invisible when fitted - much like the crank feed conversion - and the quality superb.  Steve wouldn't fit it unless it was just right.  Take a look at the pics.


Want to see and hear one in action?  Youtube


What are you waiting for?  Call Steve on 02920 645045 for more details.  


No need to think about selling the old girl now!

Supermoto fun - DRZ style.

It's been a while - house moving has taken its toll but now I'm back and bikes once again come first!

A new toy on the scene has given me plenty to do.  Having wanted a supermoto for years, I finally came up with a mint 2005 DRZ400E with both sets of wheels.  A UK spec bike, imported to Australia by its owner, and a successful bid on Ebay made me the proud owner.

So, what'll it do mister?  No rocket ship that's for sure but smooth and easy going.  I like it.

A cracking looking bike!  All that's needed now is the popular modifications for the DRZ courtesy of Thumpertalk.com.  More of that soon.

Aftermarket products

I'm the worst person to ask about aftermarket shi... umm products. I've had to fit hundreds of items over the years, on cars and bikes, and it's rare to find something that actually fits properly. From exhausts to clutch cables, brake shoes to gasket sets – there's usually always something that makes me groan because of quality or it takes literally hours to get something to work properly because it's a cheap copy!


So why do we fit them? Not by choice generally. At work it's because the customer has asked for it specifically or the dealership finds it easier to get something from a local factors. At home, it's usually because the only items you can still buy for an old bike are being made again by a new supplier.


Occasionally, I buy something that is just perfect! I forgot to mention the latest edition to the fleet, a 2005 DRZ400E with supermoto wheels. Cracking little bike, but still restricted by its rubber snorkel fitted in the airbox. Literally two fat fingers would have filled the opening!


The modification? Remove the snorkel (easy on the “E” model) and fit an upjet kit from JD Jetting in the USA. Ordered up from their site, I awaited delivery. It wasn't long before I was ripping open the package.

Immediately I was hit by the quality of the kit. The box it came in spoke volumes - sound lame? Well in my opinion, the overall package is important. It gives you an idea on what to expect when fitting the parts. Inside was a plastic box that held the two needles, four main jets and detailed instructions on how and what jets to fit depending on your altitude and riding temperature/humidity.

So what was it like to fit? Tank and seat off, unscrew the top of the carb (two 3mm allen bolts) and then a 4mm plug to remove for access to the needle. So easy! I used the blue needle from the kit and, because the temperature is lower at the moment, set the circlip 4th groove from the top. Dropped it in, refitted the 4mm plug and then the carb top. Sorted.


The main jet was a little more difficult and I thought the carb might have to come out but, with a little bit of manipulation, slackening of the inlet rubbers, taking the top subframe bolt out and removing the float bowl drain plug, I was able to weasel a new 162 main jet into place. That was the worst bit but I got it in!


So with it all tightened back up nicely, tank and seat back on, petrol tap turned on and choke out, it was time to hit the starter button. Success. Cheap modification that helps the bike breathe properly and perform as it should. A lot more fun!


Maybe aftermarket products aren't so bad after all – well some of them!