Sunday, March 10, 2013

Airbox Design - A Black Art?

K&N's, Pod Filters, Bellmouths...
This was the first mod on everyone's list years ago. Freer-flowing filters, bigger jets, coupled with a nice loud exhaust and suddenly you were pushing out 110 on the dyno (in the pub at least).

The reason was simple. The airboxes fitted to the average bike from way back when were usually too small, too restrictive and, in terms of power, bloody useless. Yes, they might have stopped the odd house brick from being sucked through the engine, and probably quietened it down a fair bit too, but in terms of helping the engine do its thing - hopeless.

But... today it's a different matter. Lift the tank on your average race rep now and you'll see a small suitcase mounted below. It'll be fitted with a nice big filter and the bellmouths on the carbs, or injector bodies, will have easy access to fresh, filtered air. The suitcase itself is probably fed cool air from the front of the bike through a couple of sizeable plastic tubes. The manufacturers cottoned on, and now know how to make an engine breathe!

The '83 GSX750
It boasts Twin Swirl Combustion Chambers, but struggles to get a smooth, cool, filtered supply of air into them. Not a wonder with this stuck in the way!




Initial glance and you might not see a problem, but looking at it from above you can see that carbs two and three have an open supply of air, whereas one and four are pointing straight at the back of the airbox - basically restricted.




So junk the airbox, fit four separate filters and everything's fixed... or is it? Well it brings with it a new set of problems. CV carbs are often hard to set up when used with pod filters. After a re-jet you might get them to fuel nicely at idle, but then suffer somewhere else in the range. Some bikes just aren't suited to them at all, and will never run right.
Then you need to think about what's happening at higher RPM and higher vehicle speed. Sat in the garage, idling nicely, you blip the throttle and it sounds great. Out on the road, cracking on a pace, and now it has to suck turbulent air travelling past at high speed, already warmed by a hot engine. Not ideal conditions, and leading to an air-starved engine.

What kind of air does the engine want?
1) Cool
2) Filtered
3) Smooth-flowing
4) Unrestricted
5) And a large supply of it

(Is this a beer ad?)

But all this is a big ask on an older bike. Why? There's no bloody room, the carbs are already wider than that frame gap! Two cylinders would be so much easier.




The frame tubes dictate how big, and what shape, it can be and it's in two pieces because it's so difficult to fit! To improve on the original is going to be hard, but impossible? Maybe, maybe not.


Amazingly, the inlet tube on top is standard. It doesn't attach to anything and just sucks air from under the seat! Times have definitely changed.



Is there a plan?
Hopefully. Time to start designing a new box from aluminium. The original box no longer seals properly when pushed together anyway (from years of abuse); so whether I use K&N's, or make a new box, the old one has to go.
How big?
If I remember correctly, I once read an article by John Robinson, from Performance Bikes, stating that the airbox should be ten times the capacity of the engine to ensure a ready supply of filtered air. That leaves me with the challenge of fitting a 7.5L container somewhere between frame, engine, carbs and suspension. Happy days!

Who's got a number for K&N?

Sunday, February 10, 2013

The $20 Performance Boost For Your Bike!

A quiet word from the fairer sex...

And he finally did it. 

A conversation with a couple of super-quick, R1-riding ladies the other weekend, both ex-CBR600 riders, convinced Bry that a couple more teeth on the rear sprocket was the way to go. Now the CBR6 is no slouch as it is, but that didn't matter, his mind was already ticking over the pros and cons of this cheap performance trick.

Hmm, more acceleration... just what I need to beat Dave's R6...

He checked the gearing on his bike to find out he was already down one tooth on the rear sprocket to start with. Strewth, slower than standard!

Straight to the computer to peruse eBay, and a 520 DID X-ring chain, 15 tooth front sprocket (one down from standard) and an aluminium 44 tooth rear sprocket (one up from standard) was ordered without delay. 

Then I was sworn to secrecy - until now.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Oil Coolers, Radiators, and Fins.

Cooling... Uber Important!
Having already struggled to clean out the engine cooling fins, today I decided to take a look at the oil cooler. Cosmetically rough, but no leaks, it has a lot of damage to the tiny fins between the oil tubes. Can we fix it? (Bob the Builder could.)




So how does it work?

Saturday, January 26, 2013

It's Bucking Fuckled!

Wheel Balancing on the Cheap!
With new tyres fitted, I'm left somewhat skeptical as to whether the bike shop actually balanced them! I purposely removed the old weights and cleaned the rims before taking the bike down there because they often balance them with the old weights still attached. But now I have a bike with no weights on either wheel. Sometimes you can be lucky enough to get a wheel balance perfectly without weights, but two on the same bike? Hmm.

Enough is enough, it was time to make a static wheel balancer out of the scrap steel and wood hanging around the garage. The only cost to me was the bearings (608Z) which were $9.00 delivered for ten of them! Sorted. 
Now I'll be able to fit my own tyres and balance them for a lot less cost.

Make your own wheel balancer.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

NOS - New Old Stock (Not Nitrous)

Trawling eBay for "NOS"
Don't you just love it, mooching through the pages of NOS stuff on eBay and you find the exact part number you need?

Thirty years on and someone had old 61211-31310 sat amongst their old spares. Unused and on the other side of the world just waiting for the GSX to be brought back into contention.


So, bought and sent from the UK, I now have something to hold the swing arm in the bike. Job jobbed.

And on another note...
Managed to find a company in the UK selling aftermarket brake caliper slide pin rubbers for the GSX. Mine had expanded far beyond useful and I needed new ones to keep the grease in, and the crap out.

Motorcycle Products Ltd. have a massive selection of bike parts and I got 5 rubber boots for fifteen quid. Not bad, it was nearly ten bucks per boot from Suzuki and, as I only needed four, was left with a spare just in case.

So the front calipers are now finished. Another tick in another box. Slide pins move nicely, new pistons, seals and brake pads. Check out these before and after pics.








Saturday, January 5, 2013

Bleeding Brakes! And worse...

You've replaced everything, but still no brakes!
Don't worry, it's probably an easy fix. Whenever you mess with the hydraulic side of the braking or clutch system, you risk letting in air. What happens? Lots of lever travel, but no braking effort.


So why does it occur, and how do I solve it?

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Suzuki GSX750 ESD - Front Brake Caliper Rebuild.

Brake Servicing
Before you consider the need to upgrade your existing braking system, is it actually working as the manufacturer intended?

Calipers are often overlooked if they're not leaking, but dirt build-up and corrosion will stop the piston sliding freely. When the piston can't move back and forth easily, not only is it harder to apply braking force, but it will also prevent the brakes from releasing too. They'll run hotter which could mean warped discs and/or brake fluid boiling. 
If the caliper looks dirty, corroded or the pistons are hard to push back, it's time for a clean up and maybe new seals. The calipers on the GSX are way past a simple clean. It's time for major surgery so, once painted, it's time for the new seals and piston...

Caliper Pistons and Seals