'02 - '03 Yamaha R1 Fuel Light Flashing Eight Times

How to fix...

There are a lot of opinions out there regarding this fault, and some would have you believe it's an engine management issue. But this is down to the fuel sensor circuit only. 

Replacing the Gear Change Spring on Swinging Arm BSA A10

Working on the A10...

Being pressed back into action for the first time in years, you sort of expect a few issues. The only thing that went wrong was the gear change return spring snapping, but did it leave me stranded? Not at all, shoot back home, take off the cover and order a new one. It was there the next day! 

So, without further ado... The outer cover comes off easily with four nuts to remove and three screws. The kickstart and gear change can stay attached at this stage and makes it easier to remove the cover. Also, the outer cover can be removed without affecting the gear indexing so makes this a very easy job.

With cover removed, you can see the offending item sticking out behind the gear change mechanism. The split pin, visible here, can stay in place, just remove the tiny circlip from the outer side of the cover and the whole unit will slide out from this side, revealing the spring.

Classic Brit Bike Road Test Fest!

Biketech7 - Back to the UK for a Roadtest of the Past.

What can I say about the latest road test? It's been a while, but this was pretty unique. To ride old faithful was gift enough after all this time. Sat for the last seven years with oil in its petrol tank (thanks dad), the '54 A10 astonished me. Still a first-kick starter, petrol tap on, a quick tickle and it was running. Effortless, except for the hefty heave on the kickstart, I couldn't have been happier. But to get out on the other two bikes too, outstanding!

Devauden.

Early evening in Tintern.

The next bike to get an airing was the '59 T110, pretty much an original bike, and another easy starter as long as you remembered the retard lever. I was rusty. I forgot. Still, the old Triumph is a true gentleman, or lady, and was perfect once up and running. Certainly more oomph from the Trumpet, and the front brake was a hell of a lot stronger, but annoying play in the head bearings became a pain when upping the pace. More on that later.

'02-'03 Yamaha R1 Idling and Running Problems

 Cutting out and doing my head in...

R1 Streetfighter - What'll She Do Mister?

WOW!

Considering the old tyres, this bike impresses immediately. Admittedly a little bit wary on roundabouts because the tyres are as hard as wood - but as they clean up a little, it starts to inspire a little bit more confidence. (They will get changed for Rosso II's soon, I just wanted to make sure everything else was going to hold together before lashing out on new boots.)

Suspension is nice, sublime, stiff but supple, and doesn't pound you like the Bandit or older bikes. Old, conventional forks don't caress you in the slightest, they can leave you feeling tired and drained after a few hours. Modern (we're talking twenty-year-old modern) forks can deal with the shit underneath, and leave you feeling pretty bloody rested in fairness.

The naked R1's biggest attribute? It's absolutely bloody solid! 

A massive difference when compared to a frame with some flex. And with the ProTaper bars, you're pulled forward enough to be in a slightly racer-like position, which is much more comfortable for me than sitting dead upright. This oozes quality, and you can feel how capable a bike like this is straight away. If it was the faired bike you would expect it, but the handlebars make you think differently.

Now the engine feels harsh at lower RPM (wear/issues?), but as the power winds on, oh so nicely, it smoothes out. In any gear, a quick blast up to the ton is a walk in the park, like any sportsbike should be. I think this is a much better hooligan tool than the fully-faired bike, and I look forward to getting a few lessons.

I've not done enough miles yet...

I'll be back with more soon, but I really like it.  It's quick, and it wheelies much too readily when you give it large. Yeah, this will be a fun bike. It inspires enough confidence to let you know that it will look after you whatever happens on the road, but is going to throw your bollocks in a bush if you start taking the piss. 

On that note, here's a video of it sat still, where it can't do any harm.

Yamaha R1 Streetfighter - Wiring To The Finish!

 Tidying up the wiring...

So far, the most painful part while knocking up the streetfighter has been the wiring or, more importantly, where to hide it. While also making it look tidy and functional. Where the manufacturers have loads of room within a fairing to put everything neatly, we need to move it somewhere else.

Traditionally, the headlamp shell would hold a fair section of wiring, but my LED light is pretty chunky and I'm guessing it's going to run quite hot with the huge heatsink on the back of it - I'll keep an eye on that.

There seems to be a fair bit of room under the airbox (above the engine) so I'm putting what I can in there. I'm also moving two relays under the seat along with the fusebox, purely for ease of access. The fan relay can stay under the airbox. I'll keep the headlamp fairing loom intact with all plugs so it can be put back to standard at a later date.

Yamaha R1 Streetfighter - Repairing Bodywork

 The Tailpiece...

Finding a secondhand tail for the R1 was becoming a pain. Cheap enough in the States, rocking horse shit out in Oz. I decided to give repairing it a go. It was cracked in several places, missing a chunk of plastic just under the seat, and both mounting brackets were broken off and missing. Not a good start, but not impossible.

I'm not a huge fan of plastic welding on fairings — I haven't come across a really strong weld yet — but am open to it if someone can prove the join is stronger than the original section. I am going to superglue the cracks shut, then fibreglass behind them. Yes, fibreglass is messy, but extremely strong and durable. With a light skim of filler, I'm hoping to get away with it.

The pointy bit under the seat will have to built up first in fibreglass, then shaped with filler. I consider this to be skill-building, and I need the practise with filler anyway.