Especially considering, for the last couple of months, the shock absorber has been breathing its last and dumped its oil. Not bad for a 24 year-old bike.
Hustling it along was ok as long as you didn't force it. Maintain pace and keep things smooth and it handled most roads perfectly. But while I've been off for the Christmas break, I figured it was time to sort it all out. With a GSXR1000 K8 shock ready to slot in, it was time to upgrade.
Front end.
I started with the front end. Now I have my homemade centrestand I can lift the front of the bike with a jack under the engine and drop the forks. I also took the opportunity to put a new front tyre on and change the wheel bearings. I'm putting it back to a 120/70R17 and had a new Dunlop Sportsmart waiting to go.
I would've liked to upgrade the springs too, but settled on an oil change only using 15W (ISO46) instead of the recommended 10. In fairness, the forks worked well once more preload was dialled in, with enough sag but also not bottoming out so I figured the springs would be fine.
Unscrewing the top was easy enough and two 14mm spanners allow you to remove the cap.
Left it hanging to drain them, also giving the damper rod a few goes up and down to try and evacuate all of the oil.
It's an easy job to change the fork oil when there's only preload adjusters, and I was happy to find that the springs have already been changed to linear 8.5's. Result!
The oil was grey as expected, but that happens in no time on forks anyway. With about 550ml poured back in, and once the cartridge was full of oil and no air left in there, I sucked out the excess with a tube and syringe. To get rid of any air in the cartridge, just pull the damper tube all the way through its travel several times slowly until it feels the same all the way through. Air gap on these is 99mm with spring removed.
Simple tool, the top zip tie is positioned at 99mm. Just rest that on the top of the stanchion and suck out the excess with a syringe.
The locknut on these is positioned at the lowest part of the thread, and then the cap is screwed into place.
The more rounded profile of a 120/70 will hopefully give a more confident tip-in. My speedo will also read correctly now. That bloody mudguard still sits high above the tyre though. A Gixer one would look better if it would fit.
The speedo drive.
While it was apart, I wanted to grease the drive as the speedo has a tendency to float around occasionally. Both shims had been put under the gear as opposed to one underneath, and the other on top of the drive plate.
Here the locking ring is the only thing stopping the drive plate come off.
This is the order they should go together (in my opinion). First a shim, then the drive, seal, drive plate, shim and locking ring.
All old grease was cleaned out, including the worm gear too. Then new grease applied.
The seal was a bit of a mess to be fair and didn't sit tightly in the housing. While it was clean, I applied a few dabs of superglue to the steel backing so it would stay in place within the housing. The actual lip that goes around the shaft was still nice and flexible so it should still work ok.
That should help matters and, like the rest of the bike, is still in really good condition.
The rear end.
One original shock absorber that had seen better days. It still handled reasonably well considering.
I apologise for the lack of photos from here on out, I was covered in grease for the majority of this part so didn't pick up my camera.
I was considering buying all of the needle roller bearings and sleeves for the linkages before starting this job but, due to cost and wanting to get it all done right now, decided to strip and see what they looked like. I'm glad I did, they were all in really good condition. With a clean and new grease, this was going to be a easy job!
This is a popular mod on the Mk1 Bandit and you will find lots about it in forums. It's a longer shock so will change the geometry and lift the back. Thats a win-win situation in terms of quicker steering, and the bike looking better.
I was able to do the whole job from underneath, the seat didn't even come off. The shock will come out through the swingarm and the new one will also go back in the same way. What I didn't allow for was my homemade centre stand wouldn't allow the cushion lever (linkage) to drop far enough. Bollocks!
I ended up supporting the whole bike with a length of thin box section through the subframe on top of a 60ltr drum on one side, and and an upturned piece of box section on the other. Not ideal but got the job done.
(Once the stand was removed, I cut triangular sections out of it to allow for the lowered linkage.)
To allow room for the reservoir, part of the battery tray will have to be cut or trimmed. Again, it was all done from underneath with a Stanley knife and I opted to leave it in place rather than remove it. It does rub against the reservoir, but I figure it won't hurt.
I also bought two new bolts for the dogbones from a local bolt supplier. You will also need washers to space them out or they will rub on the larger spring. I ended up with 4.5mm on each side of the linkage making it a total of 9mm. This now clears the spring. The bolts I bought were M12 x 130mm (originals are 115mm long).
For the top bolt I cut off about 6mm so that it doesn't rub on the rear brake hose.
That gives you an idea on the washers used on both sides of the swingarm.
The bottom bolt didn't need to be cut as there were no clearance issues.
I did have to move my exhaust out slightly as the bracket for the centre stand stop was now touching the swingarm. Once I had enough clearance, I undid the preload to set the sag at 30mm. Feels good, and the front and rear move up and down in unison.
The bike is now somewhat taller because the 120/70 front tyre is about 25mm taller than the 120/60 (a total of 13mm higher at the front), and the longer shock has raised the rear too. This has made it lean over a little bit further than I like on the side stand. I've dropped the forks through 10mm to see how it feels. If it isn't too twitchy, it can stay like that.
What'll she do mister?
This thing feels great! It's still compliant but the wallowing has gone. It's taller and feels meaner, a better hooligan bike. Considering how old they are, the Mk1 Bandit is a very solid bike and the old frame holds that engine in line with relative ease.
Through a series of roundabouts, or quick turns, it is absolutely sublime. It no longer falls suddenly when you're at a certain angle. Seriously, for a 24 year-old steel-framed bike, this thing is amazing.
I do have more weight on my wrists now so my hands are going numb quicker, not sure if I've increased vibration through the bars somehow or I'm just leaning on them more. Maybe a fat bar conversion at some stage?
For now I'll just enjoy breakfast at Mt. Tamborine.
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