New chain and sprockets for the GSXR

It was time.  I'd been putting it off for a while and I was getting fed up with having to adjust the chain on the GSXR after every ride!  

New sprockets were ordered from www.bikegearwarehouse.com.au - the chain I already had waiting.

Vortex front sprocket, 17 tooth (standard)
Driven rear sprocket,  43 tooth (1 tooth more - K7 gearing)
DID Gold X-ring 530 chain.

I'm not changing the gearing too much, but this will give the K6 that slight extra snap in acceleration and the wheelbase is also reduced.  Wheelies should be easier than ever. After removing a few links from the chain, the adjusters are all the way forward. 

The black, stealth sprocket is looking good.  The hollow rivets in the chain link have mushroomed nicely with the rivet tool.  We are green for go.  Early morning ride coming up and hopefully no more of this constant adjusting!

Results spur you on

This is what restoration is all about.  Taking something that looks fit for the bin and bringing it back to life. The clutch cover.

A quick wire brush, a rub with some wet and dry and I reckon it'll be ready.  Nearly.

Oil pump drive removed along with the clutch actuating mechanism.  The inside of the cover is in superb condition!  The outside not so.  Time for the Dremel fitted with a tiny wire brush.

The Dremel did the business - now for the paint.  This time I armed myself with paint stripper.  

Fantastic stuff!  Just need a scraper (plastic filler spreader is ideal because it won't scratch the metal) and we're away.  Better to wear gloves when doing this because that stuff stings a bit!

Time for the 120 grit wet and dry and a wash in the sink while no-one's about... 'looks around nervously'.

Time to get back in the garage before I get found out.

It's a good idea to clean out all of the threads.  Corrosion, instant gasket (silicone) and damaged threads all cause havoc when rebuilding so sort it out as you go along.  A good tap and die set is a must when restoring.

Right, let's give it a whirl.

That'll ding dang do for me.  Just needs the paint rubbing off the letters and it'll be right.

Not too bad to be fair.  Time to make a start on the stator cover.

Mixing paints - I knew it would happen!!!!

So the oil pump cover was painted.  Job jobbed, but then I wasn't happy with the gloss and decided satin would be the better finish.  Satin paint would also hide the light pitting in the cases.  Flatting them with 120 grit wet and dry has helped, and considering they are 35 years old, they aren't too bad... anyway, off to see Angus at Cheapa Auto Spares and the supplies were bought. 

VHT Engine Enamel in satin black as recommended by Davey
Autosol to polish up the aluminium bits and bobs
600 wet and dry to flat the oil pump cover painted a week earlier.


I set to work on the cover quick smart.  Flatted it off with water and the 600 paper and soon had it ready for painting.  Any shiny bits were keyed up with a scourer and a final degrease with brake cleaner before it was ready for another coat.  A light dust coat to start with but before I could even walk away, the reaction started!  The VHT reacted with the Sperex and I was faced with rubbing it back to bare metal again - oh how I laughed.


An hour later, the gloopy mess was cleaned off and I was ready to start again.  Still, now I was ready to paint the clutch and the oil pump cover.

Satin or gloss black?

When painting the Can-am engines I normally go for satin black.  To take a quick break from the engine internals, I thought I'd clean up the oil pump cover and give it a quick coat to see what gloss looked like.  Gloss is fine as long there are few imperfections in the surface but, because of the corrosion, I might not get away with it.

Hope there's metal under that corrosion.

Oof! Needs a bit of a clean up!  So a quick wire brush and I was left with this.

Time to get the rough wet and dry out.  I used an 80 grit to get rid of the worst of the corrosion and start feathering the paint edges.

Corrosion evident on the outside too.  Oh well, it'll add to the aged look! 

Time for the 320 wet and dry.  Looks like I'll end up with bare metal so 320 will be near to finish on.  If flatting off a painted surface, you need to end up with 800 grit to avoid the scratches showing through the paint.

Time to degrease and lay on the paint.  I did the underside and let it dry before turning it over and painting the side that matters.  My favourite aerosol engine paint is PJ1 Fast Black.  It goes on thick and the finish is superb.  I'm using Septone engine enamel but it does take a little more effort to cover compared to PJ1.

Unsure as yet whether or not I like it.  Might flat it off and use satin black instead. 

Decisions decisions.

Engine strip... yet more.

The clutch is off, the kickstart ratchet and idler gear exposed... so let's delve deeper.

The emulsified oil left in the gearbox has actually kept the internals fairly well protected.  Nothing horrendous as yet.

The kickstart stop screw can be seen poking through here.  It has a 17mm hexagon head and does look like a sump plug from underneath.  If you undo it to drain the oil, the kickstart ratchet is immediately released!  Always remember to undo the Allen bolt sump plug when changing the oil.

That leaves us with the disc valve cover.  The little plastic gear (oil pump drive) in the centre of the crank unscrews by hand.  Then it's time for the air gun to remove the crank nut and gear.

The disc cover is held by four screws, but take a little care when removing because they are always very tight.  An impact screwdriver is probably the best way to remove these after so long.

One disc valve.  The rusty stains actually wiped off with a rag and WD40!  The crankcase surface the valve runs on is in excellent shape too.  Just a little light pitting, and for Magnesium cases, that's pretty good.

.

Engine strip continued.

Time for the clutch.  This is a slightly different setup compared to the average Japanese bike.  Normally the pressure plate can be removed and the plates taken out but on the Rotax engine, the aluminium hub needs to removed too.

First remove the six screws from the pressure plate.

Now remove the plate and the springs behind it.

This leaves the centre nut and its tab washer.  Hit the tab back with a chisel and a hammer and remove the nut.  You'll need a clutch locking tool to lock the hub and clutch basket together unless you have access to an air gun.  Luckily I have an air gun!

Now the centre hub can be lifted out.

The plates can now be pulled out together.  Just as well because these are stuck together.

The clutch basket can now be removed, taking care with the order of the bearings, shims/spacers etc. on the gearbox shaft.  Refit them into the basket in the correct order and put a zip tie around to keep them in place.  If the engine is apart for several months, you'll be glad you did.

One clutch removed.  Next we'll get the kickstart ratchet, idler gear and disc valve cover out.